Donaldson and Emmons: Our Hardest Peaks Yet OR We Are 19er’s!

7 09 2009

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 063

The last day of summer is today.  Then it’s back to the classroom.  We went out with a bang though: we had planned an ambitious three peak-a-palooza on “unmarked” trails Saturday, September 5th.  (I say unmarked, but by now, most of the high peaks are fairly well trailed.)  Our friend, John, invited us to come up to his cabin to hike up Donaldson, Emmons and Seward with him and his daughter.  We jumped at the chance to do this monster 17-miler!  Billy Goat Boy and his dad also came.

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 013

To do this hike, we had to get up at 4:15 am to be ready to leave at 5:15 am, to be on the trail at 5:45 am.  It is better to START in the dark than to FINISH in the dark.  And let me tell ya, IT WAS DARK.  The kids were a little less than enthused about getting up that early, but they did it.  It was about 50 degrees F at the beginning, no wind, clear skies.  We signed in and we were off, John’s daughter setting a mean pace for us.

My husband told me the first part of the hike (3+ miles) was flat.  He LIED.  It wasn’t flat.  It was mostly downhill.  That meant coming back was going to be UPhill.  But we moved as fast as we could.  After that, we took a left turn and the hike was STRAIGHT UP, for a longass time.  It took us five hours to get to the peak of Donaldson.  Everyone else was moving at warp speed, but my littlest one and I were struggling up.  I am so proud of her.  She has the shortest legs (I’m second) and it’s NOT easy for her.  She did it and she ROCKS.

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 044

It was a gorgeous day and the views were fabulous.  However, we didn’t get to enjoy them, because we had to really get to it and push it, if we were going to do two more peaks.  It was about this point I thought, “This isn’t fun.  I don’t like this.  If I’m going to expend all this energy and goad my little girl up the mountain, I want to be able to lie in the sun and eat m & ms at the top, dammit.”  She will get stronger and faster, but right now, she couldn’t keep up with the others. 

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 059

So, on the way to Emmons, my husband and I decided that we were going to call it quits with two peaks.  After that, the hike got more fun.  We were able to slow down (a LITTLE) and smell the roses (as it were).  My two older children must have wings on their feet, cuz they were flying along with the others.  We caught up to them and told them we were going to head back down after Emmons.  Our son was fine with that and decided to come with us.  Our oldest though, wanted to go on with the rest of the group.  I was really torn about this, as this has been a family thing we do.  It didn’t feel right to me to have her leave, but I also didn’t want to stop her.  And frankly, I’m overjoyed that the mountains have so gotten under her skin that she felt compelled to get that third peak in.  I’m really REALLY proud of her.  So, the group split.

We went back to Donaldson and enjoyed some sun/m&m time at the peak.  Then, we made our way back down the mountain.  The up I can do, the down is what gets me.  I think I need new boots.  My feet slip too much in the ones I have and it is hell on my toes.  I have blisters the size of dimes on the bottoms of each of my big toes and I’m going to lose each of those toenails.  Owwwwww.  But it was so worth it.

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 042

We didn’t see much wildlife, just some toads.  But we did find a  bear track and bear scat.  That was pretty exciting.  I do hope I’ll be lucky enough to see a bear someday.  (From far away and going in the opposite distance, but still…)  Seeing the evidence of their existence was pretty cool.

We didn’t have any troubles getting down the mountain.  It took a long time, but no trouble.  I was a little worried about my oldest daughter because I KNEW she’d be coming down the mountain in the dark.  The trail was there, but in the dark I wondered how obvious it would be.

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 038

When we found the “flat” trail (the last three miles), we were really tired and sore.  The parking lot seemed forever away.  My daughter and I started composing a little song:

Oh my toes are sore and my ankle’s turned, but I want some more cuz I ain’t been burned, my hands are cramped from holding my poles and my pants are full of mud and holes!  There’s a parking lot out there somewhere, but we can’t find it, oh somebody come and rescue me before I have a hissy fit, fit, FIT!  Oh I have about 84 blisters, but let me tell ya mister, I went on a 15 mile hike, but I’d rather ride my bike!  There’s so much more to say, but I wanna be an ADK!  46ER!!!

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 103

I don’t really know how far the hike was.  LONG.  LOOOOOOOONG.  John’s daughter thinks our part of the hike was 15 miles and their part of the hike was 17 miles.  I do know the elevations: Donaldson: 4140′, Emmons: 4040′, and Seward: 4361′.  On the ranking scale of 1-7, they are ALL 7′s.  I am so proud of us!  We are 19er’s and our oldest daughter is a 20er!

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 106

We got back to the cabin at 7:30 and it was still a little light.  We took a quick swim and then made dinner.  I had decided not to start worrying about the other group until 10:00.  They got back at 9:00.  My oldest was exhilirated, but later, she admitted it felt weird to hike without us and that it felt strange at the peak without it.  Also, at the top of Seward, she said there was a memorial for an 8-year-old boy who died in 2006.  She said it was very sad.

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 163

The next day we took a little hike around the pond and we found a tree that beavers had been working on.  There were  two great logs on the ground and Billy Goat Dad said, “Hey!  These would be great souvenirs!  Wouldn’t one of these be great in your classroom?”  He was right!  And he was nice enough to carry the logs back for us!

9.5.09 Donaldson, Emmons 176

It was a PHENOMENAL weekend and I am so grateful that John invited us!  Now, it’s on to school!





Cascade revisited

2 09 2008

Today was a LOVELY day.  Seriously, we don’t get many nicer.  It was about 75 degrees F and no wind, hardly a cloud in the sky!  We went with another family: a dad, a mom and their 5th grade son. 

We did it!

We did it!

In addition, we added two of our favorite teen-aged girls…

Our two favorite older "daughters!"

Our two favorite older "daughters"

(for our last hike, I asked the kids to write a list of what we needed to take–they put the usual things, “M & Ms, skittles, twizzlers” and then our youngest added, “Jory and Liz”)  So, we left here around 8 am and were on the mountain at 9 am.

This was the family’s first hike as a family (dad had hiked three of the peaks before).  Mom was a bit worried about it, but she did GREAT!  I’m so proud of her! 

First family high peak

First family high peak

It was also “Liz’s” (and exchange student from France) first high peak.  She ALSO did a great job!  I stayed with the two of them and we got to learn a lot about Louise.  Very fun.

This is the fourth time we’ve done Cascade.  I LOVE this mountain.  It is not “easy,” but it’s not that difficult, especially after having done Giant/Rocky Peak and Algonquin/Iroquois  (oh, how the perspective changes!).  We had a lovely time.  We were going rather slowly (my group), so I am not sore at all.  I didn’t like hiking without my kids, but they had a blast!  Hmmph.  We saw tons of little kids (and dogs) on this one!  That was kind of nice!

The kids at the peak

The kids at the peak

We also ran into some other friends.  One of them has a son in our youngest daughter’s class.  It was pretty funny because they came up the hill and saw us and the dad said, “Wow!  Johnny has been talking and talking about how his friend ALWAYS hikes these mountains and she’ll a really big hiker…and then BOOM!  Here you are!”  Too funny.

We are done!

We are done!

Anyway, it was the perfect way to say farewell to summer.





ADK 46 Street and Nye–Oh well…

24 08 2008
Not EVERYTHING can be “WOW!”  At least we are now 10ER’S!!!
This is IT???

This is IT???

Generally, after one of our hikes, we have our family photo, taken at the top of the peak, inspirational views in the background.  Well, this time, here is our family photo, taken at the peak.  And that’s the view.  Somehow I feel…cheated?  Our youngest even said it, in the car coming back.  “That was kind of a let-down.  I mean, you do all the work to get to the top.  At the very least you should be able to SEE something.”

It wasn’t a total wash.  I’ll get to the positives later.   For now, here are the stats:

Peaks: Nye (altitude 3895 ft) and Street (altitude 4166 ft).  We started the climb at 10:00 am.  It was sunny, 67 degrees F and humid.  The bugs were almost non-existent (THAT is a positive!).  It took us 4 hours, 6 minutes to get to the split (about 4 miles), 7 minutes at the split, 10 minutes to walk to the top of Nye (ho-hum), 43 minutes to get to the top of Street (2/3rds of a mile), 22 minutes at the top (such as it is) of Street (we had to eat SOMEWHERE), 34 minutes back to the split, and 2 hours, 40 minutes from the split back to the bottom (that INCLUDES a nice 20 minute break at the stream crossing–that says a LOT about this climb!!!  It has an ugly part that goes UP, UP, UP!!!).  Total mileage: 8.8.  Total time, 8 hours, 43 minutes.

When we began this little adventure last summer (with a goal to climb all 46 peaks) I wasn’t sure where to go to get information.  I had climbed Cascade and wanted more.  But I didn’t know peaks to climb and in what order, so I bought James R. Burnside’s book “Exploring the 46 Adirondack High Peaks.”  I like the book for lots of reasons: it gives the altitude and mileage of each peak, he’s got some great background information and I enjoy the anecdotes he includes about his climbs.  Plus, he’s a 46′er and I give him TOTAL props for that! 

However, with due respect to the author, it was written in 1994 and it’s somewhat outdated now, especially with the availability of almost up-to-the-minute climb reports posted on the internet.  I still recommend the book to people (for reasons listed above), but we don’t go to Burnside for climb info.  It just isn’t helpful.  (Plus, I have gotten almost apoplectic about some of his difficulty ratings: Giant is a B+???  Say WHAT?  I don’t THINK so!!!  It’s harder than THAT!)  For instance: he talks about how many folks said “Nye was quite an easy climb.  The hurricane of 1950 changed all that.  Since then, climbers have described the mountains as ‘a booby trap of hidden blowdown,’ ‘a nightmare obstacle course of deadfall and debris,’ and a ‘truly horrible place.’…As a consequence, most climbers today rate Nye and Street as the most difficult of the 46 high peaks to conquer…One will not find much compensation when reaching their summits, either…The view rating for Nye, however, remains rock solid: it is firmly imbedded at the bottom of the scale.” 

He rates this climb as an A+ and says it’s the most difficult of the 46.  Oh that it were so!!!  I don’t agree.  This climb was MUCH easier than Giant.  I will say that when Burnside climbed it, the trail was NOT maintained and it “is” now [at least a bit], so he can’t be faulted for that.  But, as climbs go, it was not overly demanding for our family (children ages 13, 10 and 8 and two parents in relatively good levels of physical fitness, ages 41).  But, like I said, the book was written 14 years ago and a lot can change in that amount of time.  However, I WILL agree with the view rating.  As far as the peaks go, there WAS NO VIEW on Nye.  Period.

One of the FEW views on the way UP.

One of the FEW views on the way UP.

One thing I will say about the blowdown evidence.  It was THERE.  And it was fascinating.  I’ve seen blowdowns (from the tops of OTHER peaks, where there is a VIEW).  I’ve always wondered, “What would it be like to be IN there?”  Now I know.  And I also have new and FOND appreciation for all those WONDERFUL, AMAZING, SUPER, LOVELY volunteers and employees who maintain the trails of the peaks.  THANK YOU.  This was our first experience with “bushwhacking.”  We were all a little nervous about it, but, as it turns out, all was fine.  (I think we got lucky.  And I don’t think we can count this as true bushwhacking.) 

It's maintained a little.

It's maintained a little.

It wasn’t that big a deal, thanks to the efforts of someone who does do SOME maintenance on the trail.  So, we didn’t have the nightmare that Burnside talked about, but it was NOT as good as the other (formally maintained) trails.  It was really interesting to see where the trees had been blown down on the mountain, pushed over like toothpicks.  In several places, there were massive birches that were mangled and thrown down.  And it was also cool to answer the kids’ questions about, “What are those tiny plants?” by telling them that they are pine trees trying to come back.  The trees were only about 3 inches high and they covered the forest floor.  Later on, we could see the trees at about a 4 foot height.  It looked like a Christmas tree farm.  That was cool.

So, we started this hike and about 45 minutes into it (approximately 1.5 miles), I was thinking, “Oh, this isn’t going to be hard at ALL.”  We had rolling hills through the forest and the path was mostly going DOWN.  There was a little bit of mud, but nothing terrible and the trail was good.  We were worried about finding the cairns that pointed us to the stream crossing, but we found them easily, no problem. 

First crossing cairn.

First crossing cairn.

Crossing the stream was fun.  Good thing, since we had to do it several times!

Crossing the stream.

Crossing the stream.

After crossing the stream at the first cairn, there was a path that went straight up, but unlike the other peaks, we weren’t scrambling over giant boulders.  We walked up on tree roots.  It was almost like walking on stairs. 

The root stairs.

The root stairs.

Even though it was really steep, I thought, “Not bad, not bad at all.”  Then we crossed the stream a second time.

A double log crossing!

A double log crossing!

After this crossing is when things got REALLY interesting!

The path began to go STRAIGHT UP.  It was unbelievable.  It took us FOREVER.  I wondered how far it was, so I looked at the distance and I’m amazed.  It probably wasn’t even a mile.  It seemed like we were doing this part for hours.  We hiked along and then IN a little stream.  It was muddy and did I mention?  STRAIGHT UP.  Ugh.  We had to take little tiny steps and stop often to get our breath.  Our littlest one was NOT in a good mood (note to self: sending husband and children to amusement park for 12 hours the day before an ADK hike is a BAD idea).  We let our little one be the pace-setter.  Of course, then she fell.  ~sigh~  But we got through it.  Maybe not happily, but hey.  It’s a character builder.

Our little one, building character.

Our little one, building character.

As we were hiking, we saw fewer people on this mountain than we have ever seen.  We were passed by one family going up–an UBER fit dad with two kids [KIDS!] scrambling behind him–they were probably 12 and 13, a boy and a girl.  They did NOT look like they were having fun–dad was practically RUNNING up the mountain and the girl yelled, “D-A-A-A-A-D!”  He just barked back at her, “Pick it up!!!”  I guess it works for some.  I was just happy to see other kids out there.  They passed us again, going down, as we were going up.  They were MOVING.  We also saw a grown son and his father; they passed us going down.  Later we saw a very large group (maybe 9 folks) and that was it.  We were literally the ONLY people on the top of that mountain (at least that we know of) and with GOOD reason as you’re about to see…

Looking at beaver dams.

Looking at beaver dams.

The other interesting thing we saw were the beaver dams.  There were a LOT of them and they were impressive!  We also saw all the trees the beavers had gnawed and moved to make the dams.  THAT was cool!  Our eldest found a giant tree that the beavers had chewed and asked, “They couldn’t have moved THAT tree!  Did they KNOW it was going to fall right there?”  I’m not sure if they “know” or not, but I do know beavers are “nature’s engineers.”  Sadly, we didn’t see any beavers.  That would’ve been cool.

The only wildlife we actually saw were lots of toads.  We heard many birds while we were near the bottom of the mountain, not so many up top.  And we LOVE finding all the mushrooms.  There are so many different kinds!  Our favorite are the “puffballs,” the ones when you poke them, release a brown powder (spores?).

We are very grateful to all the internet reports we read.  They were very descriptive and helpful.  One of them mentioned some old metal equipment after we crossed the stream AGAIN.  Sure enough, we found the equipment.  The kids were so curious.  What was it for?  HOW did they get it there?  And WHY did they just leave it?  I just don’t know…

Rusted equipment on the ground.

Rusted equipment on the ground.

We finally made it to the split.  My husband told us to, “Look for a tree with an ‘N’ and an ‘S’ carved into it.”  I almost laughed!  With ALL these trees, how could a person POSSIBLY find a tree with letters carved into it???  However…

Tree with carved letters.

Tree with carved letters.

There were also a couple of nice cairns there, but I didn’t get a photo of them.  From this point, it was just a short walk to the “top” of Nye.  Everybody say, “Ooooooooooh.”

We are NINERS!

We are NINERS!

Notice the sign in this picture.  That’s it.  That’s what you get.  If you turn and look in the other direction, there’s a smaller sign, one that’s a yellow circle that just says, “Nye.”  Whoo-hoo. 
An example of blowdown.

An example of blowdown.

I have to mention here that a person doing these particular mountains should be doubly careful watching.  Normally, when I hike, I am looking down at my feet so I don’t slip/trip/fall.  This hike had a double whammy because there WERE many trees across the path.  Three out of five of us (my husband, elder daughter and son) all got nailed in the head by a tree.  They can tell you, it is NOT a pleasant experience.
The "view" from the top of Street.

The "view" from the top of Street.

We did get to see some of the ranges from the top of Street, but it wasn’t easy!  We really had to work to find them!

We are 10'ERS!

We are 10'ERS!

Yee-haw!  Double digits, baby!!! It’s always fun trying to take a family picture when there is no one around.  We were able to balance the camera on our backpacks for this one!

The sign on top of Street.

The sign on top of Street.

Again, you have to look pretty hard for the sign on top of Street.  We didn’t know it was there until we were almost ready to go.  My husband carries his GPS, so we know we are at the top based on coordinates and altitude.  We looked for a sign, but only saw it only as we were leaving!
On the way down.

On the way down.

Coming down was FAST.  Once again, we let the little one lead.  In her typical fashion, she BOUNCED down the mountain.  She was going so fast I was breathing hard, trying to keep up (sadly, dear readers, I think this is only going to get WORSE, as she gets stronger and I get, well…older!).  She was MOTIVATED to get down!  I have to say, our pace DOWN says what kind of a climb UP it is.  It was truly that difficult.  Another good thing about this mountain is that unlike the paths on the others, this one is not full of boulders.  On the others, you’re scrambling up and then jumping or sliding down.  This one was full of roots or mud and both those things are softer and a bit easier on the knees than banging/scraping on boulders.  I felt like I was zooming down the mountain and yet, I’m not nearly in as much pain today as I was last week!  Our little one had found her legs by this time though and was very happy.  She said, “Hey Mom, you remember whiny me?”  I said yes.  She said, “She’s gone now, but she’ll be back for the next hike!”  Ugh!  :)
More blowdown.

More blowdown.

You know, maybe these mountains aren’t as dramatic as the other peaks we done.  Ok, there’s no “maybe” about it.  They aren’t.  If I had done these mountains first, I don’t think I would’ve caught peak fever and passed it on to my family.  After expending so much energy and seeing so little, I would have questioned climbing the others.  
                                                                                                                                                                            It’s true.  You do Street and Nye because you have to in order to be 46′ers. 
                                                                                                                                                                                    
     But you know something?  All things being equal, I’d do it again.  It was a GORGEOUS day, we had the privilege of being outside and mucking around in a nice forest.  And best of all, we got to do it TOGETHER, as a family.  There is NOTHING better than that.  So, yeah, the view was less than impressive, but the climb was TOTALLY worth it.
Two down only 36 to go!

Two down only 36 to go!





Algonquin thoughts

18 08 2008

This morning I was pretty stiff and sore getting out of bed, but I’m ok now.  My husband and I kept grinning at each other, thinking about the climb.  It is something so special, sometimes it’s hard to explain it.  He said, “You know, I’d really like to do that hike again, just so I could spend more time at the top.”  It’s true.  Often we’re rushing because we’re afraid to hike down in the dark and we can’t spend as much time at the summit as we’d like.  That seems like such a shame, when it takes so much time and effort to get there.  This time, as I was looking around, I did think to myself, “Wow!  This is amazing!  And there are not a lot of people who get to see THIS view.”

Our kids do some complaining on the way up, but I think it’s just a matter of giving them enough time to find their rhythm (well, that and giving them enough chocolate!).  Some days it takes longer than others.  A couple of times, it’s taken 4 hours.  Or at least until we get to the peak.  They become completely energized once they see those granite faces and begin the scramble up.  But after the peak, they are ready for the rest and then they are happy to be there!

And I KNOW they are proud of themselves.  I’ve been hanging out with my littlest one yesterday and today.  She’s been helping me get my classroom in order (what would I do without her artistic eye?).  I’ve overheard her at least three times TODAY telling people at various intersections in the conversation, “Oh, you go to the Adirondacks to kayak?  WE went to the Adriondacks this weekend too.  We hiked a mountain.  Well, actually we hiked TWO.”  The reply will come, “Oh?  Which ones?”  At this point, she will grin a bit and say, rather casually, “Algonquin and Iroquois.”  The person (if they know anything about the 46) will say, “Wow, those are BIG mountains.”  Or, “I tried getting up that one twice and never made it.”  Then, she’ll puff up a bit and say, “Well, yeah…” 

Aw, shucks.

Aw, shucks.

It’s pretty cool!  I truly love the confidence that hiking these peaks gives them!





ADK Wright Mountain…Number SIX!

17 08 2008
At the peak of Wright.

At the peak of Wright.

Ok, so you’re leaving on a plane to go out of the country tomorrow.  What do you want to do today?  Hmmm…how about we go climb a high peak?  Sounds GREAT!

Conditions for the hike: 70 degrees when we started, partly cloudy, intermittent light showers.  The operative word for today is HUMID.  Lawsy.  Thought I was gonna melt!

Here are the stats: 3 hours 18 minutes to the peak, 32 minutes at the peak, 3:01 to the base.  Total miles: 7.  Total time: 6:52. 

Scrambling up!

Scrambling up!

There were plenty of bugs, but using the high octane version of the spray we were able to keep them away (and we didn’t have to use our fancy new bugs nets).  However, a wasp did sting our eldest daughter on the nose–ON the peak, JUST as we were taking our family picture.  Boo!

Wright is a really nice mountain.  The first mile is lovely, flat.  Then, the climbing starts.  There were lots and lots and LOTS of rocks to step over until we started scaling the granite walls.  There were a LOT of granite walls to scale!!!  But, like all the peaks so far, it’s been worth it.  The peak was amazing.  It’s got this huge open granite peak.  The views are fabulous.  Sadly, this was the first hike where it was pretty overcast, but oh well.  It was still worth it.

It IS worth it!

It IS worth it!

Before we left the parking lot, there was a ranger there who greeted us and warned us about thunderstorms.  He said that if we saw or heard ANY thunderstorm activity to get off the mountain NOW.  After seeing the top, I understand why.  We thanked him and left.  He followed us up, but much later.  It only takes him about 2 hours to get up the mountain!  He was the one who took our family photo.

In the parking lot, we also saw a tent that had been clawed by a bear!  Yoikes!

We are 6'ers!

We are sixers!

WE ARE SIXERS!








Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.